Understanding Notes
With a basic understanding of both the olfactory pyramid and fragrance types, we’ll dig deeper into understanding fragrance notes.
At high level, there are four macro groups of notes and seven micro groups. You’ll find that every single fragrance is described as a combination of descriptors in the macro and micro group.
Starting with the macros, we can classify every fragrance as falling into one or more of the following: woody, fresh, floral, and oriental. While there’s a great deal of variability in formulation, industry analysis suggests that many ‘fresh’ ingredients are used as top notes, many ‘florals’ used as hearts, and many oriental scents used as bases. Woody scents can often be found as both heart and base depending on the scent.
Below are a set of raw ingredients often used in perfume organized by their notes. Familiarizing oneself with this terminology will help you get an understanding of what you like and don’t like in generalities. It will also empower you with the language to describe or search for a type of perfume that fits your vibe.
Woody (can be heart or base notes)
People who like woody scents like rich, sensual textures that feel a bit brooding and grounding yet mysterious.
Aromatic (e.g. vetvier)
Mossy (e.g. oak)
Dry (e.g. leather)
2. Fresh (tend to be top notes)
People who like fresh scents appreciate clean linens, post-shower freshness, farmers markets, and nature.
Aromatic (e.g. lavender, herbs)
Citrus (e.g. bergamot, grapefruit)
Marine (e.g. aquatic, oceanic)
Green (e.g. grass, geranium)
3. Floral (tend to be heart notes)
People who like floral scents tend to appreciate history and desire a more delicate finishing touch.
Fruity (e.g. berries, apple)
Fresh (e.g. rose, jasmine)
Powdery (e.g. dried gardenia)
Sweet Spice (e.g. orange blossom, saffron)
4. Oriental (tend to be base notes)
People who like oriental scents like a little bit of spice and sophistication with warmth think of a warm, attractive hug.
Soft (e.g. amber, vanilla, cocoa)
Resin (e.g. balsamic, musk)
Woody (e.g. patchouli, sandalwood/santal, cedarwood)
When picking a fragrance, think first of what part of your personality you want to highlight most and pick a base and heart note that represents that essence (i.e. if you want a feminine, flirty fragrance pick something with a floral heart). Using the heart as a filter, then find a perfume with a top note that accentuates a more temporary part of your personality you want to exude (i.e. if you want to come across as sporty you may opt for a fragrance with fresh top notes in addition to a floral heart). We’ll finish with an example of how to analyze a fragrance using this framework:
Tom Ford Ombre Leather
Base: Oriental - Soft (amber) + Woody (patchouli)
Heart: Woody (leather)
Top: Floral (cardamom)
In short, this fragrance will come across as a sweet spice in the beginning with the dominant heart being a leather that slowly softens into a sophisticated light woody scent.
